Refinance Comparison Tool
Compare multiple refinance offers side-by-side. Score each by APR, monthly payment, break-even, and lifetime savings to find the best one.
Your Current Loan
The baseline every offer is scored against
Refinance Offers
What Is Refinancing?
Refinancing means replacing an existing loan with a new one — usually at a lower interest rate, different term, or with cash taken out of equity. The new loan pays off the old balance, and you start amortizing on a new schedule. Refinancing makes financial sense when the lifetime cost savings (lower interest + lower payment) exceed the upfront cost (closing costs, discount points, prepayment penalty) by enough to clear within your expected ownership period.
This page bundles four tools. The default Loan Refinance tab models any fixed-rate loan against a refinance offer. The Mortgage Refinance tab is tuned for home loans with LTV and equity analysis. The Cash-Out Refinance tab models converting equity into cash. The Comparison tab scores up to four lender offers side-by-side. Pair with our Mortgage Calculator and APR Calculator for full lifecycle analysis.
How Refinancing Works
New loan pays off the old
The new lender wires your payoff amount directly to your current servicer. From day one, you owe the new lender, on the new schedule, at the new rate.
Closing costs are real
Origination, title, appraisal, recording, and discount points typically run 2–6% of the loan. They can be paid upfront or rolled into the new balance — but rolling them in means paying interest on them for the life of the loan.
Break-even is the test
Divide your upfront cost by your monthly savings. If the break-even point is shorter than how long you'll keep the loan, the math works. Longer break-even than ownership window? Skip the refi.
APR includes the fees
The advertised note rate ignores closing costs. APR amortizes those costs into the effective rate. A 6% note with 2 points and $1,500 in fees can have a 6.33% APR — that's the apples-to-apples comparison.
Six Ways to Use This Refinance Calculator
Score a rate-and-term refi
See the exact monthly savings, lifetime interest cut, and break-even period when you trade an old rate for a new one with no cash out.
Quantify a cash-out
Tap into equity for renovation, debt consolidation, or college. The calculator shows LTV, remaining equity, and total interest cost of pulling cash out.
Compare lender offers
Use the Compare tab to score multiple offers by APR, monthly payment, upfront cost, break-even, and lifetime savings — picks the best automatically.
Test shorter terms
Try 15- and 20-year refinances against your current 30-year loan. Shorter terms increase payment but often slash total interest by hundreds of thousands.
Run the break-even math
Toggle 'roll closing costs into loan' on and off to see exactly how much each option costs over time. A short ownership horizon often kills the refi.
Print a lender-ready report
Use the Print Report button to generate a clean PDF summarizing inputs, results, charts, and recommendations to share with your lender or partner.
When Refinancing Makes Sense — and When It Doesn't
Refinance when…
- The new APR is 0.75–1.00+ points below your current rate
- You'll keep the loan past the break-even period
- You're moving from ARM to fixed before a rate reset
- Your credit profile improved materially since origination
- You want to shed PMI by leveraging higher home equity
- You want to shorten the term and demolish total interest
Skip it when…
- You'll move or sell before the break-even point
- Closing costs exceed 5–6% of the loan
- The new APR is only marginally lower (under 0.5 points)
- Extending the term wipes out monthly-payment savings over time
- You have prepayment penalty on the current loan
- Your credit score dropped — pricing will be worse than today
Core Formulas
Monthly payment
P = L × r ÷ (1 − (1+r)⁻ⁿ)
L = loan, r = monthly rate, n = total months.
Break-even months
BE = Upfront cost ÷ Monthly savings
The number of months until refi savings cover the upfront cost.
Lifetime interest savings
Δ = Σ Interest(current) − Σ Interest(new)
Use the remaining months of the current loan, not the original term.
LTV ratio
LTV = New loan balance ÷ Property value
Above 80% you'll likely owe PMI on a conventional refinance.
Common Refinancing Mistakes
- Restarting the clock. Refinancing a 30-year mortgage into a new 30-year loan after 7 years of payments adds those 7 years back. Often you should match the remaining term instead.
- Ignoring closing-cost reality. The advertised rate doesn't include points or fees. Always compare APR, not note rates.
- Refinancing when you're about to move. A 36-month break-even on a 2-year-ownership window means you pay closing costs and never recoup them.
- Cashing out for consumption. Pulling 30-year-amortized cash out for a vacation or car turns a short consumer purchase into a multi-decade interest expense.
- Stopping at one quote. Lender pricing varies by half a point or more on identical loans. Always run at least three Loan Estimates and use the Compare tab to grade them.
Trust & Methodology
This calculator uses standard amortization math (PMT formula), back-solves APR via Newton's method on payment + financed costs, and benchmarks break-even using the CFPB-recommended approach of dividing upfront cost by monthly savings. Outputs are estimates — actual lender pricing depends on your full credit profile, LTV, DTI, property type, occupancy, and current market conditions.
For binding numbers, request a Loan Estimate (TILA-RESPA Integrated Disclosure form) from each lender within three business days of application. The Closing Disclosure issued before closing is the legally binding fee schedule. Use this tool to pre-screen offers and run break-even scenarios privately before you formally apply.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is refinancing?
Refinancing replaces your existing loan with a new one — usually at a lower interest rate, shorter or longer term, or with cash taken out of equity. The new lender pays off the old loan in full and you begin paying back the new loan on a new amortization schedule. The goal is almost always to lower lifetime cost, lower monthly payment, change rate type (ARM → fixed), or unlock equity.
When should I refinance a loan?
Refinance when three conditions line up: (1) the new APR is at least 0.5–1.0 percentage points below your current rate, (2) the break-even period (closing costs ÷ monthly savings) is shorter than your expected ownership horizon, and (3) your credit and income are at least as strong as when you originated the loan. The calculator returns a verdict — Strong Refinance Candidate, Good Opportunity, Marginal Benefit, or Not Recommended — based on these signals.
What is a good refinance rate?
A good refinance rate is one that's at least 0.5–1.0 percentage points below your current note rate after factoring in closing costs (i.e., the new APR, not the new note rate). For most homeowners in 2026, anything that takes a 7%+ existing mortgage to under 6.25% with reasonable closing costs and a sub-36-month break-even is worth a hard look. Watch the APR column in the calculator — it amortizes points and fees into the comparison.
How is a break-even point calculated?
Break-even months = Upfront cost ÷ Monthly savings. If you pay $6,500 in closing costs and the refinance saves $200/month, you break even in roughly 33 months. After that point, every monthly payment you make is pure savings. The calculator computes this automatically and reports a calendar date alongside the month count, plus a cumulative-savings line chart that shows when the curve crosses zero.
What are refinance closing costs?
Refinance closing costs typically run 2–6% of the new loan amount and include: origination fee (lender's processing charge, 0.5–1% of loan), discount points (each point = 1% of loan, prepaid to lower rate), title insurance and search, appraisal fee, recording and transfer fees, attorney fees in attorney-state closings, and a number of smaller fees (credit report, flood certification, tax service). The Closing Cost Analyzer in this tool breaks out a typical industry-standard mix.
What are discount points?
Discount points are an upfront fee you pay the lender to permanently lower your interest rate. One point equals 1% of the loan amount. Each point typically buys 0.25%–0.375% off the rate, but the exact tradeoff depends on the lender's daily rate sheet. Points only make sense if you'll keep the loan long enough to recover the upfront cost through monthly savings — usually 5+ years. Run them in the calculator both with and without points to compare.
What is cash-out refinancing?
Cash-out refinancing replaces your existing mortgage with a new, larger one and gives you the difference in cash at closing. If you owe $200,000 on a home worth $400,000 and refinance for $280,000, you walk away with $80,000 in cash (minus fees). Cash-out is regulated more strictly than rate-and-term refinance: conventional loans typically cap cash-out at 80% LTV, FHA at 80%, and VA up to 90% with full entitlement. Pricing also runs 0.25–0.5 points higher than rate-and-term.
Does refinancing affect credit score?
Yes, but usually only briefly. The lender's hard credit pull drops your FICO by a few points temporarily. Closing the old loan and opening a new one also slightly resets your average account age, which can cost a few more points. Both effects fade within 6–12 months. Net long-term effect is usually neutral or slightly positive — especially if the refinance lowers your DTI by reducing monthly payment. Rate-shop within a 14–45 day window to have multiple inquiries scored as one.
Can refinancing lower monthly payments?
Yes — and it's the most common reason people refinance. Lower payments come from a lower interest rate, a longer term, or both. Be careful: extending the term from 25 remaining years to a fresh 30 lowers the payment but can dramatically increase total interest paid over the life of the loan. The calculator shows both the monthly delta and the lifetime cost delta so you see the full picture before signing.
Is refinancing always worth it?
No. Refinancing is a tool, not a default move. It costs money upfront (closing costs + points + sometimes prepayment penalty). For it to be worth it, the new lifetime cost has to be lower than your remaining current cost by enough to clear the break-even point within your expected ownership window. The calculator's verdict — Strong Refinance Candidate, Good Opportunity, Marginal Benefit, or Not Recommended — synthesizes all four signals (monthly savings, lifetime cost, break-even, and holding period) into a single read.
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